Mandarin version of this blog.
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For many audiences, Gyirong is simply a remote town in Xizang, China. It is close to the Nepalese border and one of the few towns south of the Himalayas. Over thousands of years, Gyirong has served as a vital gateway, linking South Asia—primarily Nepal and India—with the civilizations north of the Himalayas, such as Han and Tibetan cultures, making it a historically vibrant and prosperous hub. When it comes to birds, however, Gyirong is very attractive to me because of the unique taxa that came from South Asia through its valleys, which are difficult to find in other parts of China. The town is open to international tourists.
Since 2020, I have eagerly awaited a proper birding trip to Gyirong. Unfortunately, my plans were repeatedly disrupted by the pandemic and other factors. Finally, in early October 2024, I got the chance to take the journey. However, before the departure, a rare heavy downpour damaged the road leading to the port in Gyirong, blocking our way to low elevations species, like the Himalayan Bulbul, Himalayan Black-lored Tit, and Rusty-cheeked Scimitar-Babbler. The birds from the lowlands of the south slope of the Himalayas are always a challenge to spot in China, given that most of the country’s terrain in this region is at high altitudes—seeing them often depends on a bit of luck as they wander into accessible areas. Another nearby port, Zhangmu, about 1,900 m above sea level, has been closed due to an earthquake. The port of Gyirong, the only relatively low Gyirong region (~2,000 m), had also become inaccessible, while the repairments would take at least two weeks. Despite these setbacks, we decided to stick to our plan and make the best of the trip.
We hired a local driver, Mr. Shi, in Lhasa, as none of us were confident enough to drive long distances above 3,500 m in the plateau. Before heading to Gyirong, I visited Kajiu Monastery (trip report here) with Mr. Shi and my friend Shuangqi. We then picked up the other two friends, Jun and Tianyang, at the Xigaze airport and set off for Gyirong town together. It was a long trip, which took about ten hours to drive.
On the way, we encountered many familiar wildlife friends. Goas and Kiangs were the most common herbivores along the roadside. Upland Buzzards and Saker Falcons soared overhead, Ravens and Snowfinches perched on the grasslands, while Brown-headed Gulls, Ruddy Shelducks, and Bar-headed Geese were frequently seen in the water bodies. However, we did not find any Himalayan Griffons then, which surprised me.
We also observed some Blyth’s Pipit, at 4,000–5,000 m altitude, on their migration. The Himalayas are probably on their regular migratory road. The altitude on the way, ranging roughly from 3,500m to 5,000 m, can be challenging for those prone to altitude sickness. When we arrived at the Gyirong Town, it was almost midnight.
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